Ulka 120V Vibration Pump
Very common Ulka EP5 120V 60Hz 41W for most home pump machines with a push on (barb) intake hose. Replacement Ulka EP5 120V 60 Hz 41W pump for almost every home machine with a barb (push on hose) fitting on the intake side and standard 1/8F thread on the output side. Standard 1/8 Barb (push on) inlet and 1/8F thread outlet.This pump can be used as a replacement in just about any application where there is a similar vibration pump ( check the installation notes below, for more information). This pump has the nylon outlet end which in our years of experience is just as durable (even in commercial applications) as the brass outlet and less expensive.Similarly, the pump wattages do not seem to make any difference in the real world - Rancilio has been using these 41W pumps in their commercial pourover machines forever.You will need a 12mm open-end wrench plus the usual assortment of screwdrivers, etc. We include new rubber mounting brackets just in case (if they are in-stock).PUMP INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSGENERALNote: If you are not qualified or don't feel completely comfortable performing this work, please don't attempt to replace your pump yourself. We highly recommend that you contact a qualified espresso machine technician. By doing this work, you assume all risk.This pump will fit most every situation. Modifications are required to replace older pumps (usually because the old round pumps have different mounting brackets with larger diameter holes for the old style pump). It is sometimes necessary to drill a new hole to anchor the new bracket, especially on the intake side.WATER INTAKE LINE (from Reservoir)Older machines often have a black or other coloured 90 degree rubber fitting to join the water line to the pump. These rubber connectors fit older pumps but not the newer pumps which have a smaller barb diameter. Remove and discard old piece. If the intake hose fitting is stretched from being over the old fitting or over the old pump barb fitting, trim 1 cm. off hose and then push on securely. Check to make sure that the hose will reach to the bottom of the water reservoir once everything is back in place.OUTPUT LINE (high pressure side)Usually start by removing the white acrolon hose fitting between the pump and the boiler. A 12 mm wrench should work. If one side does not remove easily try the other side. Often times the fitting is a tight fit and will pull away with some effort. With the line removed you can now remove the (usually) 90 degree brass connector that is attached to the pump. Sometimes it is easier to remove the pump first, other times you will need to remove the fitting before you can remove the pump through the rubber mount. Once the pump is out, remove the 90 degree brass fitting on the old pump and re-install on the new pump. Do not cross thread and do not over-tighten. You may use a couple of wraps of white Teflon tape but it is not always necessary. The white Teflon shaft of the new pump can be rotated independently of the pump solenoid housing to orientate it – grip the shaft with pliers or preferably a 12mm wrench on the slot, and rotate the solenoid by hand. Do this once the pump is fitted into the rubber mounts and you are orientating the output fitting. This helps align the output fitting and the solenoid so that the electrical spade fitting are positioned correctly.ELECTRICALNormally the spade connectors can be pushed on directly. It does not matter which wire is on which connector – they are reversible (see diodes notes below). If it is so equipped, re-install the over-temperature protection in the slot provided on the pump. If there is no over-temperature protection on your pump, not to worry – the chances of a pump overheating in even hard use is extremely remote. Some older pumps used narrower spade fittings than are used today – in this case it will be necessary to crimp new insulated spade connectors on. Match the spade connector colour to the size of the wire being used on your particular machine.DIODESNew pumps (styled like the new Ulka which has been shipped to you) have a diode built into them. The diode is a very small electrical device, usually black, and looks like a small resistor. Many older pumps have external diodes, which can be shrink wrapped on one of the wires going to the pump, or very occasionally on the wire terminal block where the main power cord is terminated to a distribution block (older Saeco, for example). The diode should be removed for proper operation. Note: If the two diodes (the new one in the new pump and the old one in the machine) are in “correct polarity” the pump will work properly, if they are in “reverse polarity” the pump will not work. So there is a 50/50 chance of the pump working if you leave the old diode in. This is because a diode works like a one-way valve letting alternating current flow in one direction only – if two diodes are in a electrical line, each “facing” a different way, no electricity can flow to the pump.Check for water leaks prior to reassembling the covers of the machine. Keep fingers away from electrical connectors. IMPORTANT NOTE:If you suspect that the old pump completely failed, carefully leave one wire off of the element while testing and priming the boiler. This ensures that the element will not heat up and be damaged while you test and prime the pump and boiler.Please ensure the element wire does not touch any ground (like the boiler) during testing and that the machine is turned off and unplugged while detaching or reattaching the element lead (temporarily cover open spade with electrical tape to prevent a short).